Fruit Tree Care
Planting and care tips for growing fruit trees in Hawaiʻi
This guide shares what more than 45 years of growing fruit trees on the Big Island has taught us. Every yard is a little different, and rainfall, soil, elevation and wind all play a part, so think of this as general guidance rather than a guarantee. Questions about your trees or location? Contact us.
Happy planting!
Keys to Fruit Tree Success
→ Pick the right tree for your spot. Match the tree to your elevation, rain and wind.
→ Dig a wide hole with good drainage. Fruit trees never want to sit in standing water.
→ Plant at the same soil level. Not deeper than it was in the bag.
→ Mulch after planting. A wide ring, pulled back from the trunk.
→ Water deeply. Especially in the first few months.
→ Feed consistently. Every 8–12 weeks for the first year or two.
How to Plant Your Tree
What you'll need (for a 3-gallon tree)
Wide hole, good drainage, same soil level, water well.
Planting a bigger tree? Scale up the hole and the amendments to match.
| Item | Amount | Why |
|---|---|---|
| Planting hole | 18 in wide × 24 in deep | Room for new roots |
| Well-composted manure | 2–3 lb | Organic matter and nutrients |
| Dolomite lime | About 1 cup | Calcium; balances acidic soil |
| Treble superphosphate (0-45-0) or superphosphate (0-30-0) | 1 cup | Strong root growth |
| Black cinder or perlite (optional) | Up to ⅓ of your soil mix | Drainage in heavy soil |
| Mulch | Enough for a 4 ft circle | Moisture, soil health, fewer weeds |
Step by step
Dig. 18 inches wide and 24 inches deep. Make sure water drains out of the hole.
Mix your soil. Mix the dug-out soil with composted manure (we currently use Nutri-Rich 4-3-2 chicken manure pellets) and about 1 cup dolomite lime. Optional: up to ⅓ cinder or perlite, plus organic matter like mac nut husks, leafy material, wood chips or compost.
Phosphate goes in first. Spread the cup of phosphate in the bottom of the hole and cover it with 4–6 inches of your soil mix.
Set the tree. Cut off the bottom of the bag and set the tree in the hole. Slit the bag down the side and remove the bag or container completely.
Fill to the same level. Keep filling until the soil is at the same level it was in the container. Don't bury the trunk deeper.
Water thoroughly!
Mulch. See below.
Mulch is one of the best things you can do for a tree.
Spread it in a 4 foot circle, starting a few inches (about 4–6) from the trunk. It can cover the soil completely.
Use leaves, twigs, small branches, wood chips or other composted plant material.
It holds moisture, keeps the soil cool, holds fertilizer around the roots longer, and builds healthy soil as it breaks down.
It keeps weeds down, so there's no need for herbicide around your tree.
Add more every few months.
Water deeply and less often, not a little every day.
At planting: soak the root zone thoroughly.
First few months: water deeply 2–3 times a week in dry spells. Let the surface dry slightly between waterings so roots grow down.
Once established: water only during long dry periods.
It depends: rainfall and soil type change everything. Puna rain may do most of the work; Kona or Waikoloa may need regular irrigation. Check the soil a few inches down before you water.
Fertilizing
Feed young trees every 8–12 weeks, spread wide around the tree.
| Stage | What to use | How often |
|---|---|---|
| Young trees (first 1–2 years) | Fruit tree fertilizer close to 3:1:2 (N:P:K) | Every 8–12 weeks |
| Fruiting trees | Higher potassium, about 1:1:3 (N:P:K) | Every 8–12 weeks |
| All trees | Minor and trace nutrients | Once or twice a year |
Start at the drip line (the edge of the canopy) and spread outward in a wide circle. This draws roots out away from the trunk, so the tree anchors well. The canopy follows the roots.
Switching to 1:1:3 once trees reach fruiting size slows leafy growth and puts energy into flowers and fruit.
Citrus are heavy nitrogen feeders and need minor nutrients. Blends like "palm-citrus special" include both.
Fruit trees benefit from proper soil pH. We recommend an annual application of dolomite lime or calcium for most fruit trees.
Minor and trace nutrients go on once or twice a year, depending on rainfall, tree type and location.
A soil test is the best way to know what your soil needs. See our Resources Page.
Pest Management
Spot the problem, then use the gentlest fix that works.
We recommend Integrated Pest Management (IPM): identify what's actually causing damage and treat that, instead of spraying everything. Broad-spectrum pesticides also kill the beneficial insects that keep pests in check.
Young trees also need protection from animals and strong wind. A simple cage or stake goes a long way in the first year.
| Problem | Common fix |
|---|---|
| Aphids | Insecticidal soap or horticultural oil |
| Mites | Wettable sulfur |
| Many common fungi | Copper fungicide (copper is also a nutrient trees need) |
| Caterpillars | Bt, a natural bacterium that only affects caterpillars |
Your First Year
Year one is about roots. Slow growth up top is normal.
Your tree spends most of its energy building roots in its new soil.
Some leaf drop or transplant stress is normal while it settles in.
Focus on consistent watering, regular feeding, keeping mulch in place, and protecting it from wind, pests and animals.
If it flowers or sets fruit early, consider removing most of it so the tree can put energy into growing.
Expect noticeably stronger growth in year two and beyond.
| When Will My Tree Fruit? | First fruit |
|---|---|
| Citrus | 2–3 years |
| Avocado | 3–5 years |
| Mango | 3–5 years |
| Lychee, longan and other tropicals | 4–6+ years for steady crops |
These are general timelines. Harvests grow each year as the tree matures. Weather, elevation, soil and variety all affect timing.
Choosing Trees for Your Elevation
Your microclimate matters too
The best local guide: look at what your neighbors are growing and harvesting.
Rainfall, soil, sun, and wind protection all change how a tree performs. A sheltered spot can let a tropical tree succeed higher than the chart suggests; a windy one can hold it back lower down.
| Elevation | Conditions | Trees that do well | Watch for |
|---|---|---|---|
| Sea level–500 ft | Warm year-round, coastal | Mango, citrus, starfruit, sapodilla, abiu, starapple, banana, guava, soursop, rollinia | Salt wind. Plant away from direct ocean breeze. |
| 500–1,500 ft | Hawaiʻi's most versatile zone; most orchards are here | Almost anything: mango, avocado, citrus, lychee, longan, starfruit, guava, banana, white sapote, loquat | Rain and drainage vary a lot within this range. |
| 1,500–3,000 ft | Cooler; tropicals grow slower | Citrus, avocado, loquat, white sapote, mulberry, coffee, guava | No mangoes. Grapefruit and pomelo struggle. Avocados need excellent drainage. Loquat and white sapote love the cool. |
Pruning & Suckering
A little regular care keeps your tree healthy, productive and easy to harvest.
Pruning shapes your tree, lets in light and air, and keeps it a manageable size. Suckering removes unwanted growth from the rootstock so the grafted tree gets all the energy. Both are simple once you know what to look for.
Pruning Basics | When in doubt, prune lightly. You can always take more later.
Start with the 3 D’s. Remove dead, damaged or diseased branches any time you see them.
Open it up. Take out branches that cross, rub together or crowd the center, so light and air reach the inside of the tree.
Keep it reachable. Cut back tall growth to keep fruit within picking height.
Go easy. Don’t remove more than about a quarter of the tree at one time.
Use clean, sharp tools. Clean cuts heal faster and help prevent disease.
Timing matters. Many fruit trees are best pruned right after harvest, so you don’t cut off next season’s flowers.
It depends: the right pruning varies with the type of tree, its age and your goals. Young trees need light shaping, while mature trees may need size control. Look up pruning tips for your specific tree, or contact us with questions.
How to Remove Rootstock Suckers
Rootstock suckers are growth from the plant’s original rootstock tree. They take vitality from the tree and should be removed. They are usually below the graft union, but can also be slightly above it on the rootstock, as shown here. Any growth that is not originating from the graft union is a sucker and should be removed.
Use clean, sharp clippers to remove any rootstock suckers from trees. Do not cut growth that originates from the graft union. Rootstock suckers can grow on any tree that has been grafted, so it’s important to remove them from your citrus, avocados, mangoes and any other grafted tree. This is especially important for young trees. As the tree matures, the grafted tree will become dominant and rootstock suckers will grow less frequently.
Questions? We're here.
808.966.6633 · office@plantithawaii.com
This guide offers general information based on common growing practices in Hawaiʻi. Conditions vary widely by location, soil, rainfall and care, so results can't be guaranteed for any specific site. [Full disclaimer →]